Iceland Finale: The Golden Circle, Hell in Hella & Reykjavík

The following days are lumped together for a combination of reasons, but mostly for my own sanity. From days 11 – 15, we were underwhelmed by Iceland’s most popular tourist route, confined to our cabin for the better part of 24 hours due to a ferocious storm, and spent two days straight doing nothing but…

Iceland Day 10: We Slept in the Car

Vík – Hella I awoke before sunrise in the passenger seat, twisted helplessly in my sleeping bag. My neck was stiff from being lodged in an awkward upright position all night, my throat sore, and as my eyes adjusted to the dim morning light, I realised that the entire car was steamed up and dripping…

Iceland Day 9: An Inescapable Geology Lesson

Svínafell – Vík I awoke in a groggy gin haze, but was thankful to have been left alone by any ghouls that potentially resided in the old farmhouse. The only thing to haunt me in the night was Jim’s bodily functions. Our damp tents and gear, which had also left the room smelling particularly unpleasant, were…

Iceland Day 8: Rain, Rain, go Away

Höfn – Svínafell After a gorgeous sunrise, albeit cold and damp from within our not-so-strategically-placed tents, the weather decided to return to its favourite state; les miserables. The grey skies set in, showing no sign of retreat, and rain began to pelt the Jimny as soon as we embarked on a little drive around the fishing…

Iceland Day 7: Exploring the East Fjords

Seyðisfjörður – Höfn It was another cold night, but being sardined inside Jim’s tent kept us both toasty warm. We were so squished in fact, that when my phone alarm went about its morning ritual, I was so tightly bundled in my sleeping bag that I couldn’t move my arms to switch it off. Wriggling…

Iceland Day 6: Odd Smells and Snowstorms

Lake Mývatn – Seyðisfjörður We were greeted by a dusting of snow as we climbed out of Mývatn the next morning, which had become increasingly scattered across the road and over the barren hills beyond. Excited by the enchanting landscape, we pulled up into a lookout area to take in our surroundings. Jim proceeded to fall…

Iceland Day 5: Chasing Waterfalls

Blönduós – Lake Mývatn Getting out of my toasty cabin bed was an enormous struggle, but I felt immensely grateful for a proper night sleep and was ready to take on the day; which, we soon found out, would be a repeat of the past four, weather-wise. I was beginning to wonder if we would ever…

Iceland Day 4: Treat Yo’ Self

Drangsnes – Blönduós I awoke stiff as a board. My whole body had tensed up from a night of relentless shivering. My feet, which were wrapped in three utterly useless pairs of socks, and the tip of my nose, stung in protest to the cold. I was going to have to get used to this. As…

Iceland Day 3: It’s Windy in the West

Ólafsvík – Drangsnes I would wake up at regular intervals throughout the night, shivering uncontrollably. I felt unpleasant, to say the least, as I fumbled my way out of my tent in the morning; but a breakfast concoction of oats, granola, seeds, dried fruit and nut milk soon brought me back to life. Eager to get…

Iceland Day 2: Flashbacks & Gravel Roads

Akranes – Ólafsvík I awoke the next morning at the crack of dawn, feeling thoroughly invigorated for a night outdoors, yet superbly cosy. That was, until my skin made contact with the air outside of my sleeping bag, and I recoiled in horror, desperately scrambling around for a second layer of thermals. The sun was…

Iceland Day 1: Landing on Our Feet

Keflavík – Akranes Flying parallel to the country’s south shores, we caught our first glimpse of what was to come; the late September landscape looked drained of colour and every contour was enveloped in an eerie bleakness. Ominous patches of rain cloud hung silently in otherwise clear skies, sinisterly blackening anything that lay beneath them. After…

Where I Ate: Vegan in Reykjavík

Unlike most travellers, we decided to leave Reykjavík until the very end of our trip. For almost two weeks prior, we had successfully scrimped on camp stove-appropriate meals from Bónus; the supermarket equivalent to Ikea, as Jim aptly pointed out, and so it was time to nourish ourselves with some much needed nutrients upon our arrival in…

Gear List: Camping in Iceland in September

Iceland has been on my radar since I discovered my true affinity for the great outdoors in Tasmania, back in 2016. Since then, I have been on a mission to get closer with nature, be it day trips from Manchester to the Peak District, or adventures a touch further afield. On 17th September 2018, I’m…